Bird Nest Building Materials Door Wreath
Nesting Materials for Backyard Birds 
This is an item that we completely love and one a backyard bird watcher can appreciate. A beautiful door wreath made out of bird nesting materials. Not only can you use it to decorate your front door, but birds can land on it and take some of the fluff use it to build their nests. The wreath is very attractive with it’s earthy colors and is made out of all natural materials which are safe for birds. The nesting wreath is made from feathers, cotton, hemp and aspen fiber and it is so soft! We are really taken by the idea of having a bit of living art in the yard with birds landing at our very door. If you are going to decorate the outdoors, why not make it green and part of the overall wildlife habitat? It’s a great gift for that bird watcher on your gift giving list who has everything or just for yourself. The feather your wreath is one of those small items that you don’t need but is sure nice to spoil yourself with! Find out about the Feather Your Nest Wreath or visit our page of backyard bird nesting materials for an assortment of nest building helpers.
Posted in bird houses, diversion feeders, outdoor decor, squirrels
Hopper Bird Feeder Review: Sky Cafe
Sky Cafe hopper style bird feeder review:
Simply put, this is a great bird feeder. There are several good features about it but our favorite is the fact that it is has larger capacity hopper that can hold up to ten lbs of seed. Also, since the reservoir is clear, you can easily see when the feeder needs to be re-filled. If you have been a backyard bird watcher for some time, you’ll know how much easier these two issues make your hobby! If you are new to bird watching, take these features into consideration.
The tray is wide enough to suit larger birds such as cardinals, which is a benefit. The top is squirrel proof due to it’s shape. Any squirrel approaching from above will slide off - the distance from the hanging chain an anything a squirrel can reach is too far. The sky cafe is designed as a hanging feeder so take into consideration placement if you intend it for a squirrel proof feeder. It will still need to be placed far enough away from spots squirrels can’t jump from the sides or below. It is only squirrel proof from the top. It may be pole mounted but requires an adapter kit.
The sky cafe comes with different color roof options - red, clear, blue or green. We have found it to be very weather resistant and good for keeping bird food dry in foul weather. We recommend feeding black oil in it, a mix with a smaller seed will just spill out, as is the case with most hoppers.
Really, we have no negative points about the sky cafe. If you have the right spot for it, it is a great bird feeder. If you only have one bird feeder, it’s a best pick. The sky cafe with BOSS is going to attract and suit a large variety of songbirds. Please visit our hopper bird feeders page for a larger selection, including the sky cafe with different color roofs or find out more about the sky cafe hopper bird feeder.
Posted in bird feeders
Porcelain Roof Stainless Steel Wire Bird Feeder
Here is a new product for backyard bird watchers that we think we are just going to have to buy for ourselves. It’s a wire mesh bird feeder made of stainless steel and has a porcelain roof. The roof is extra wide to help protect seeds or peanuts against weather. The overall design of this bird feeder is just beautiful! And it looks like a feeder that is not only pretty, but the birds can actually use it, and birders can actually clean it. Now that combo can be hard to come by. The feeder features attractive ring, circle perches around the hopper.
You can use this wire feeder for sunflower seeds, nuggets or peanuts. We think it will be the perfect peanut feeder. Our current peanut feeder is similar and also stainless steel, which is a material we can recommend. It holds up great for years. If you have one, let us know what you think, good or bad. It’s just so attractive! See more wire mesh bird feeders or find out more about the Porcelain Roof Stainless Steel Wire Bird Feeder.
Posted in bird feeders
Feeding Squirrels - Bird Feeder Diversion
Feeding Squirrels in the Backyard
Backyard bird watchers are forever attempting to keep squirrels out of bird feeders. To completely keep squirrels away from feeding stations, there are several squirrel proof bird feeders, and the best system we have found is by using squirrel and raccoon baffles on pole mounted feeders. However the idea of keeping squirrels, chipmunks and other four legged wildlife from raiding songbird feeders and keeping the birds from being allowed to eat is a system. Part of the system that works on our yard is by providing squirrel diversion feeders.
A squirrel diversion feeder keeps the little tree rats occupied and since it is set up specifically for them, a lot easier for them to access than a baffled or squirrel proof bird feeder. Hopefully this means they will use their special feeder instead of a bird feeder!
There are many styles of squirrel diversion feeders on the market, including models that hold wildlife mix and treats, or those which are more of a challenge for a squirrel and quite funny to watch. You can shop for a variety of them here: Backyard Squirrel Diversion Feeders.
Best Squirrel Feeding Station
The very simplest and least expensive type of feeder designed purely for squirrels is: Tree or Post Mount Squirrel Feeder
Tree or Post Mount Squirrel Feeder
This feeder is designed to hold an ear of dried corn and you can set one up easily, replace the food easily, and it does not cost a lot. We occasionally use corn cobs, but to be honest, the squirrels easily eat an entire ear of corn on the cob in a day and then you have the trash of the stripped cob. Not that the trash is a big issue but we are firm believers in low maintenance! The less work it is the more likely any backyard feeding program will continue. Our recommendation for the tree mount feeder are Squirrel Log Corn and Nut or the ever popular with tree rats, Squirrel Log Sweet Corn
The squirrel logs last a heck of a lot longer than an ear of corn. Considerably longer! And it’s a bit more work on the squirrels part to get the food off, instead of just ripping off kernels and dropping them all over the ground. The squirrel logs are compressed corn and equal to 12-24 ears of corn. As avid as we are about backyard feeding we would not be changing out corn cobs daily. The logs eliminate that need, the squirrels got lucky! They have a hole in the center for skewering on a cob feeder. Try them, you will not be sorry. It ends up being less costly in the long run due to how long they last. Since the squirrels love them and they are so easy to get to (unlike our baffled bird feeders), they head for these first before our feeders. It’s worked out great for us and helps to keep squirrels off our bird feeders, plus the birds feed off them as well. Particularly nuthatches! The nuthatches just love them. Chipmunks also scurry up the tree and nibble away on the logs.
Here are some photos of our backyard tree/post mount squirrel feeder using these treat logs. You can see that they are solid and the squirrel has to spend a bit of effort chewing them up. The squirrels tend to bite off only what they eat right then as it’s too much work for them to just throw food around. We like that part! Less waste and much less refilling!
If you try any of this out, please leave a comment and let others know how they work or you. These compressed corn logs are designed to fit any squirrel feeder that holds ears of corn, but we have only tried them on the tree/post mount feeder. If you have tried them on another style feeder please give a review. We’d love to know what works and what does not. Thanks!
Posted in diversion feeders, squirrels
Backyard Squirrel Diversion Feeding
Backyard Squirrel Diversion Feeding
Should I feed Squirrels? People ask if they should feed squirrels and other wildlife in their backyards to help keep squirrels out of their bird feeders. We say yes. In our personal backyards, we feed the squirrels and it does help keep them from frantically trying to get to our bird feeders and eat all the seed, let alone chew up and destroy expensive feeders. Understand that squirrels will always try to get to bird feeders so a feeder must be baffled or squirrel proof, but baffles and squirrel proof feeders are a separate topic. Here we are just going to talk about our systems of diversion feeding for the bushy tailed tree rats.
The above photo shows our main squirrel diversion feeder. It is a ground bird feeder table - you can shop a selection of these to purchase at: Ground Bird Feeder Trays. A ground table is fantastic for feeding squirrels and also helps to keep bully birds such as blue jays, grackles and starlings away from smaller songbird feeding stations. Again, the topic of bully birds is another post altogether, but we do have jays in particular feed from this table, as well as juncos and rufus sided towees who prefer to feed off the ground. These species rarely land on our elevated feeders.
The food we put out on our ground tray table is cracked corn, which is inexpensive. We blend the cracked corn with a cheap bird seed mix that has a lot of milo in it. The cheap mix is just about useless to attract songbirds since it is full of fillers, but great for squirrels and doesn’t cost a fortune to keep food out which the squirrels plow through. Milo is a filler food that the birds don’t care for in general but squirrels love. The seed mix does contain white proso millet which appeals to junco, sparrows, indigo buntings, also the mourning doves like it, so it has uses. Our advice on these food types is to purchase them at a local shop that sells livestock feed if you have one in the area. Cracked corn for used as chicken feed is cheap cheap cheap. (Uggh, no pun intended. Seriously). Just make sure that it’s straight cracked corn without diet supplements.
Our ground tray feeder is made of recycled plastic. We are absolutely crazy about it!! It is made of recycled plastic milk jugs and by golly is it easy to clean. It’s not often that we will recommend a feeder that costs more than other feeders, but the recycled plastic is honestly going to last so much longer than wood that the extra cost is well worth it. The legs don’t rot on the ground, the mesh screen comes out, and if the tray itself gets cruddy you can use a mild bleach solution to clean it. Note: remove screen before using bleach - don’t ever bleach metal!! This feeder is terrific for helping us keep jays, pigeons, doves, and other feeding hogging birds out of our songbird feeders. It serves more than just squirrels.
In fact, we replaced our wooden ground feeder table with the recycled plastic because it is so much lower maintenance. The wood on our ground table had aged well but the plastic is not porous like wood, so grime does not suck into the plastic like it does wood. We haven’t got enough food to say about this feeder. Here is one that you can buy: Recycled Plastic Ground Feeding Table
Recycled Plastic Ground Feeding Table
This model does come in a version with a roof, however we personally do not use a roof because we are in a drought ridden area and have little weather past hot or hotter. If it ever rains again we can put a roof on our table feeder. A roof will help keep the food out of the weather but we prefer the visibility of an open table. You may have a different opinion if it rains often in your area, or you have snow in the winter. In the case of winter feeding and snow, the roof is handy. It’s detachable so you can remove the roof in the summer if you wish. The mesh on this table is small enough to hold millet and screws in, we have had zero problems with it. The one in our picture is slightly different, however we actually own both and the green version is outstanding. Can you say hardcore bird watchers? This method of diversion feeding helps keep squirrels away from bird feeding stations, attracts ground feeding birds and is relatively easy to maintain. It works for us!
Tips on the feed: Food should not be placed directly on the ground as it gets moldy and goes bad very rapidly, but instead placed on a table or elevated platform. Don’t put out too much at one time. Corn molds quickly! Do not feed any animal or critter moldy food!! Only put out what they can consume on a few days and if it gets moldy, throw it away. This is why there is not much food on our feeder. It stays clean and we just drop a scoop of fresh food on it when needed. You do not have to use the same foods we do of course. There are plenty of specialty squirrel and chipmunk feeds available, corn foods and wildlife blends and mixes. Table scraps are also good for squirrels and chipmunks. The squirrel above is munching on a cut up piece of honeydew melon ring. Again, only put out small amounts so that is does not go bad and make backyard wildlife sick.
If deer are eating from a ground feeder, please be aware that straight corn is not good for deer!! Please do a little research on this prior to feeding deer at all. Deer feeding is an entirely different topic than diversion feeding.
The block on the feeder in the top picture is a small deer lick, a 4lb apple flavored mineral block. Squirrels and birds alike enjoy this so we use it for the heck of it. Finches in particular just love it and visit the mineral block daily. Finches will dig through fire pits to get minerals out of. Normally we use a 50lb mineral block - it’ll last for years, and deer of course visit it, but we need to replace ours at this time and were having a difficult time finding the larger, apple flavored deer block specifically. We found the smaller mineral block so just grabbed it in order to have one available to our yard wildlife. These are available in the hunting sections of stores. (Yuck). The mineral blocks made for livestock, cattle and sheep are not the same as deer block. However, mineral blocks made from goats, which come in a berry flavor, are a close match and are good for birds and squirrels. It all gets so complex, doesn’t it? A note on these blocks is they are primarily salt so you would not want to leave it on the metal mesh of your table feeder for long periods of time as eventually the salt will corrode the metal. Also, being salt, keep it away from plants of any sort. Salt will kill plants.
Posted in diversion feeders, squirrels
Homemade Yellow Jacket Bait Station
This is instructions on how to make a bait station dispenser, not a trap for yellow jackets. A bait station is for holding insecticides which yellow jackets take back to the nest and hopefully feed to the larvae. This is handy if you don’t know where the nest is located.
Now let me start out by stating that yellow jackets are of value in a yard or garden for a bunch of reasons, and be warned they do eat a lot of bugs! If you kill them off you are likely to get other types of bug issues. You can read about that anywhere so I won’t preach. Something I firmly believe is that any creature is about habitat, food availability, and habits. You must know and understand these issues if you wish to eradicate a pest from your environment. The best source we have found for information on yellow jackets are:
Journal of Insect Science- Search for Vespula, which is a yellow jacket.
University of Wisconsin - Researchers study yellow jacket behavior article worth the read.
Oregon State University - Article on yellow jackets. Take a moment to read the .pdf file.
Journal of Environmental Entomology - Which is an absolute bear to go through since it has no search feature for the online versions of the journal and laymen (me) viewers do not have access to a lot of info, but still worth the mention.
Different yellow jacket workers have different tasks, they will eat different bait, etc. The more you understand about yellow jacket habits and needs, the more successful you will be. And please, if you know of any decent resources for Entomology information please leave a comment let us know!
This whole yellow jacket bait station came up in our lives because we are infested with them, and I do mean infested. I’ve been in this state for 25 years and not seen the likes of the population we have this season. Our yard is honestly carpeted in the dang things. I have always lived with yellow jackets, they are present every season. Most years I even know where the nest is and since they have always been out of the way, I have left them alone. But this season forget it. I’m kind of Green Girl here but am ready to hire a crop duster to fumigate all of my land. I wouldn’t be bothering with making yellow jacket bait stations except that we are genuinely infested so I need a lot of them. If I had my ruthers, or if you aren’t plastered in the pests, I recommend buying one of these:
It’s a product called Scent-Ry Deer Dispenser and is used for deer fences. It’s larger than it looks and the part labeled “screen” has holes in it big enough for yellow jackets to fly in and out of, but chipmunks, butterflies, hummingbirds, your neighbor’s darn cat and other critters will have a harder time. The top comes off and it’s easy to clean. They are sold in two packs, which ought to do the normal person just fine. They can be hung or staked into the ground. This would be our first choice.
But we had to go to plan “B” to try to the insecticide to a large number of yellow jacket workers quickly hoping to take down the sheer volume we are dealing with. Purchasing several packs of the Scent-Ry Deer Dispenser grew costly quickly and hopefully we won’t be using bait stations for long or need them again, so we started testing what sorts of containers yellow jackets would take food from. The plan is to try and keep bait stations from being as accessible to other animals. We consider our bait stations disposable after a few uses.
How I did this: Firstly, I purchased small drink containers in the kid’s dishes department of a Walmart/Target type store. They are for children and quite small, and cost under $1.
The very bottom was painted black with spray paint. It was modeled after yellow jacket traps, which work quite well, and we have discovered that yellow jackets need a bit of help entering and exiting a bait station. They need to know that the exits are towards the light, upwards. Also they do not seem to like the bait as it dries out and the dark color helps keep it moist. Do not paint too far up the container as they get easily confused and don’t appear to care to fly towards the darker color where the bait itself is located too much.
Then I cut some holes around the bottle so that the yellow jackets can smell the bait. This was done with a nail. The plastic is thick so cutting trough it is a pain in the buns!
After that, I cut (hacked is more like it) two exit holes on either side of the top - again, yellow jackets seem pretty graceless and kind of bump about the top until they hit one of the holes, but the idea is for them to get the bait and get back out so they can take it back to the nest.
A longer, narrow entrance hole was cut just above the black paint. They seem to tend to fly in here, which would be closer to the bait located in the bottom, and after getting the bait, fly upwards to exit through the top holes. The lid is also left off the plastic bottle so they may fly out that way. All of the holes were made small to keep the bait out of reach of other critters. Pay attention to this!! Think about it - if you are using jelly or sweets for bait, butterflies and chipmunks will want it as well. If you use salmon or other meats, domestic cats will try for it.
We filled the bait stations from the top through a metal funnel, using a disposable wood shish kabob skewer (available inexpensively at the grocery - if I recall, a pack of 50 was about $2-3 and handy around the house anyway for poking random things). We also cleaned them out with disposable shish kabob skewers. Big warning - ALWAYS USE METAL to mix insecticides if it is not something you will be disposing of! Don’t be mixing bait in a plastic bowl, okay? Plastic can absorb chemicals, but metal will not. Clean clean clean - and then clean again - anything that touches an insecticide. The insecticides used for yellow jacket bait traps are often fairly concentrated and a tiny bit goes a long way. They are a meant to be diluted and a heck of a lot stronger - therefore nasty - than a pre-mix.
The bait is poison, please respect that! These bait stations could be hung easily enough by a wire in locations other animals can’t get to.
If you try this, please leave a comment. It will help the next person with a similar problem. We have had a devil of a time with this issue ourselves and would appreciate!
Posted in pests, yellow jackets
Yellow Bellied Sapsucker
Yellow Bellied Sapsucker
Range and Habitat:
The yellow bellied sapsucker summer breeding range extends from central Canada to Newfoundland, south to British Columbia, North Dakota, Missouri, and central New England, and the mountains to North Carolina. From late March through September, they can be seen in new forests from southeastern Alaska over Canada and the northeastern United States with smaller, more localized breeding populations living in the Appalachians as far south as Tennessee. In winter months, the yellow bellied sapsucker migrates, leaving their summer range. In the fall all Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers migrate to the southeastern United States, Mexico, Central America, or the West Indies for the winter. The species has happened as a very rare occurrence in Ireland and Great Britain.
Their habitat is most often new, open deciduous or mixed woodlands with clearings and while on migration, they visit parks, yards, and urban gardens. The yellow-bellied sapsucker is most abundant along streams in mixed hardwood conifer woodlands. They are also found in ponderosa pine, aspen, mixed coniferous trees, lodgepole pine, and in mixed stands of fir-larch-pine.
Food:
Like other sapsuckers, this birds bore holes in trees and eat sap and insects. They may also cull insects from tree trunks or capture them in flight. They eat fruit and berries in addition to insects and sap. Sapsuckers are discriminating in using particular trees over others, and they commit a lot of time in managing trees for both current and later use. They are known to eat off as many as 1,000 various species of trees, though they show a predilection for particular species within a given area. Birches, sugar maples, and scotch pines are a a couple of primary favorites. They frequently will choose single trees that are injured or weakened, such as from insects, disease, lightning or wind. The cause for this may be that the the sap of trees in poor health has higher degrees of amino acids and protein.
At Your Bird Feeders
Yellow-bellied sapsuckers feed fruit and insects as well as sap. They can sometimes be enticed to backyard bird feeder stations which provide suet or fruit bird foods.
Nesting:
Their breeding habitat is wooded areas across Canada, eastern Alaska and the northeastern United States. They favor young, principally deciduous forests. There is also an isolated population found in high elevations of the Appalachian Mountains in Virginia, Tennessee, and North Carolina. They nest in a large cavity hollowed in a deciduous tree, often choosing one weakened by disease with the same location potentially be used for several years. t takes one to four weeks of excavating to build a nest site, which is lined with sawdust and wood chips. One egg per day is laid until there are between 2 and 7 eggs. Most often this birds will mate with the same partner year after year as long as both birds live. They occasionally crossbreed with Red-naped Sapsuckers or Red-breasted Sapsuckers where their breeding ranges overlap. Nesting consists of 5 or 6 white eggs in a tree cavity hollowed by the birds. The male sapsucker picks out the breeding territory, selects the nest site, and does the majority of the nest cavity excavation, they also assist equally in the incubation of the growing eggs and nestlings and manage most of the nest cleanup. They also do a large amount of feeding the young. Male sapsuckers are more apt to succeed at single parenting. If one parent dies when young are in the nest, the babies are more probable to survive to fledgling if raised by the male.
After two weeks of incubation, the baby woodpeckers hatch and almost at once begin their constant, raucous vocalizations that can be heard 100 yards or further. The harried parents quench the nestling’s insatiable hunger with insects dipped in sap. Three to four long weeks later, the young are physically prepared to depart the nest, however they are sometimes loath to do so. In such circumstances , parent sapsuckers have been seen luring the young fledglings by dangling food just out of their reach. House and box height placement from ground in feet: 10-20.
Pretty Pictures
This photo of a male and female yellow bellied sapsucker is from mon@rch nature blog. Please visit him at his blog and also his flickr photography gallery for some absolutely beautiful nature photos. His photography of yellow bellied sapsuckers, which includes the larger version of the photo we show, is located in his blog post Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers in Allegany State Park. There are several more (dare we say again, beautiful??) shots of these birds there which are far better than the single sample we have displayed.
Posted in bird species
Attracting Red Bellied Woodpeckers
Red Bellied Woodpeckers are great backyard guests and a happy sight for the wild bird watcher. They will easily visit bird feeding stations and garden habitats. A red bellied woodpecker will frequent a yard for suet as well as black oil sunflower seed, and seem to be able to manage to access a wide variety of bird feeder designs.
Range and Habitat:
The red-bellied woodpecker may be found in nearly all of the eastern United States, with the exception of for northern New England. Birds in the northern most part of the range might migrate in the wintertime. The red-bellied woodpecker can be found in exposed and swampy forests. Red-bellied Woodpecker is found in open and swampy woodlands. It prefers forests, swamps or wooded suburban habitats below 600 meters elevation, but can be found at up to 900 meters in mountains. In the winter, birds in the northern most areas of their range may move south. Their breeding habitat is commonly deciduous forests in southern Canada and the northeastern United States, although they may roam as far south as Florida and as far west as Texas.
Food:
The red-bellied woodpecker consumes beetles, flies, grasshoppers,caterpillars, ants, beetle larvae and other insects. It also eats acorns, tree sap, beechnuts and fruits.They can also consume frogs, fish, nestlings and eggs. It applies its bill to dig for insects in trees and stumps. The red-bellied woodpecker occasionally stores food in a tree cavity. In the winter, the red-bellied woodpecker’s diet consists primarily of seeds and it can often be seen frequently at backyard bird feeders.
Attracting to Backyard Bird Feeders
Red bellied woodpeckers are common guests to backyard bird feeding stations. In our yard we have seen them most frequently on our double tail prop suet feeder, including having the male on one side and the female on the other:
This is only one style of suet feeder, there are may you can shop for at Wild Bird Suet Feeders. The red bellied wood[ecker’s preference in suet flavors has been peanut and peanut butter suet, but we have also watched them eat a lot of berry and fruit flavored suets.
In our backyard, their second favorite bird feeder is an open platform tray with black oil sunflower seeds. Now, we have our platform tray feeder mounted on a pole and not hanging. It is the same feeder shown below and we absolutely can’t say enough good about it. It’s made from recycled plastic, cleans very easily and the mesh is small enough to handle millet. This style feeder is highly visible to birds and goes a long way to attract new birds species to a yard.
A note on this feeder: ours is mounted on a pole. We used a threaded pipe flange and mounted it on a threaded pipe we purchased in the plumbing department of a hardware store. The recycled feeder itself has a bar on the underside which is not visible in the picture - it’s covered with seed - however, you can use this bar to screw a flange in for pole mounting. BUT! The manufacturer of this wonderful feeder offers a Manufacturer’s Lifetime Guarantee for good reason. These feeders last! However, due to the fact that it is designed as a hanging feeder we likely gave up our Manufacturer’s Lifetime Guarantee by drilling extra holes in it. So don’t take our advice on this one. Ours is used as a pole mounted platform feeder set aside from our smaller songbird feeders in order to give jays, doves, grackle invasions, etc a separate feeding area. We needed it to be solid due to the application and it can get pretty loaded with birds! We’re extremely happy with it our way but it’s a wonderful hanging feeder as it was made to be, and red bellied woodpeckers can land on it easily when it is mounted by hanging.
There is a similar wooden tray feeder available which is made to post mount:
Wooden Tray Hang or Post Mount Feeder
Shop for a wider assortment of platform feeders here: Platform Bird Feeders
Back to red bellied woodpeckers. They also like our shelled peanut feeder hand make us laugh since they don’t cling to the side mesh but instead cling to the tray, It all looks rather awkward but the woodpeckers seem quite happy. The titmice aren’t so pleased when their peanut feeder tilts with the weight of the woodpecker!
Nesting:
Both parents select the nest site and excavate the cavity. Nest are hollowed in dead trees or branches with the cavity lined with wood chips. They nest in the decomposed cavities of dead and dying trees, old stumps, or in live trees that have soft wood such as elms, maples, or willows. Female lays 3 to 8 smooth and glossy white eggs. Incubation lasts approximately 12 to 14 days, Young are fed by both parents and begin to fledge at about 24 to 27 days old. They remain close to the nest for few days more, and then they follow their parents foraging. They are fed by their parents for up to 10 weeks. At the end of this period, parent birds will drive them away. Young may breed the next spring. This species may occasionally produce two clutches per season, but generally they raise a single brood. House and box height placement from ground in feet: 12-20.
Any tips or advice?
We’ve decided to try comments and hope the spam does not kill us…so…Please let us know if you have red-bellied visitors in your personal habitat. Leave a comment and give other visitors who may be trying to attract these wonderful birds a tip. Tell us what they eat, and if you have had any nesting experience, we’d very much love to hear about it!
Posted in bird houses, bird species